Nearly every compost problem is one of two things: too wet and airless, or too dry and inert. Find your symptom below. The fix is usually something you can do this afternoon with a fork. Below: the practical detail on compost problems, and what most guides leave out.
Organised by what you can observe, not by underlying cause, because you know what you can see and smell. You have almost certainly not ruined anything; compost is remarkably difficult to break permanently.
Most compost problems look like this underneath: matted, damp, airless.
Start here
It smells badSour, ammonia, eggs or putrid, each means something different.
It is not heating upUsually size, moisture or nitrogen. Sometimes nothing is wrong.
It is too wetSodden, heavy, water pooling at the bottom.
It is too dryDusty, unchanged, looks the same as the day you added it.
FliesFruit flies and house flies mean different things.
RatsThe problem that ends most people’s composting. Mostly preventable.
MouldWhite, green, or a strange orange. Usually fine.
Does water run out when you squeeze? Too wet. Add browns, turn it, check what it is sitting on drains.
Does it crumble apart dry? Too dry. Water it as you turn, pour on top and it runs straight off.
Does it hold together like a wrung-out sponge? Moisture is right. If it is still slow, the pile is probably too small or too short of nitrogen.
Before you assume something is wrong: a cold pile in January is not broken. Decomposition slows to almost nothing near freezing and restarts in spring on its own. See winter composting.
Keep the troubleshooting table to hand
Composting 101 has the whole symptom-cause-fix table in a printable 14-page PDF, along with the moisture test that diagnoses most problems in ten seconds.